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Oeno-File
by Sommelier Dan Fijolek
When all young palates first fall in love with wine the desire for knowledge is never far behind. Fortunately for today’s emerging connoisseurs the Internet serves to teach us all we are willing to learn. But like all information on the web the question becomes what wine info on the web can we actually trust? Below are three websites that come to mind whenever I am asked this question.
- robertparker.com ~ Robert Parker is probably the most influential wine critic in the world. And unlike Wine Spectator or Wine Enthusiast which has biased opinions based on advertising that is done in their magazines, Parker’s magazine Wine Advocate has no advertisements therefore no bias. Although his site is only partially free, he has reviews for most of the modern world’s wines which makes it a valuable resource.
- wine-maker.net ~ When people ask me who my favorite wine maker is, the name Sean Thackrey inevitably comes to mind. He has achieved true cult star status as a modern wine alchemist and insists on using traditional wine making techniques that date back to the Middle Ages. He breaks all the modern rules of wine making which gives him huge street cred from hedonists like myself. His site is fantastic because he includes a good portion of his very extensive and very old personal library for free on the site to nourish our minds.
- wineaccess.com ~ This site is a great online wine shop that pays special attention to more obscure wines that require seeking out.
Fortunately for today’s emerging connoisseurs the Internet serves to teach us all we are willing to learn. You don’t even need to leave your house to get great wine anymore. Oh mighty Internet, is there anything you can’t do?
Kitchen Connection
One of the things that I missed the most while living in the Bay Area was the inherent feeling of the evolving seasons. The changing seasons conjur up sensations on each of our five senses and bring back fond memories from as far back as childhood. Here in the midwest the four seasons arrive sometimes over night like the chill in the night air. Everyone here in the midwest looks forward to the relief of a 65 degree day after weeks of 90 degrees heavy with with dense humidity.
As a chef, the changing season signals the arrival of not just new ingredients, but thoughts of hearty roasted root vegetables, gently braised meats enrobed in a rich reduction of its own juices. Something about the chill in the air makes me crave roasted squash and pumpkins and the delicate balance of nutmeg, ginger, cloves and cinnamon on savory and sweet dishes throughout our menu. This time of year is when the sweetcorn is at its juicy, sweet and tender peak of perfection.
Maybe it’s the change in temperature or the bounty of Autumn’s harvest but the changing season brings excitement of things to come and time to reflect on the past season. Before we know it Thanksgiving will have come and the first snowflakes will begin to drop. Until then enjoy the end of Summer and all that it offers because by we will be craving those 90 degree days by January. Until next time . . .Chef Jeremy
Organic vs Sustainable Farming
One of the questions that I often hear at farmer’s markets and am frequently asked is if we serve “organic” produce. To respond simply I say that I seek out and serve as many sustainable goods that I can. The terms “organic and sustainable” are both commonly used by food producers and consumers, but is there an advantage to one or even a difference? While both are advantageous, I find that “organic” is a broad term while “sustainable” simply tastes better.
The term organic refers to global food products that are heavily regulated and can be quite costly for the farmer. It often begins with a waiting period to enssure that the land to be farmed is free from chemicals and synthetic materials, often taking up to 3 years. The farmer must then pay to have soila dn water samples taken and studied, complete documentation on farm history, design a plan for future production and be interviewed at an official farm visit. After all of this, the farmer is required to pay an annual fee anywhere from a few hundred to thousands of dollars. With these demands many of the smaller farms that I work with either don’t have or don’t desire to the label of “organic” for their produce, but would rather be known as sustainable.
In the past couple decades a grass roots movement of sustainability has made its way into homes throughout the country. A bill was passed defining sustainability as a system of farming process that enhances the environment, uses little non-renewable resources, produces food that is healthy to eat, financially sustains the farm and most importantly, enhances the quality of life for farmers and society. Most of the farmers that you will see at your local market tend to use these practices and the cost is much lower. They will use age-old farming techniques like integrated pest management and crop rotation to accomplish what technilogy has put into a powder for industrial farms.
All definitions, sociological and political views on the matter aside, to me, sustainable food simply tastes better. Organic farms can be found throughout the world and are often large in scale with extensive shipping. While the transport of foods has come a long way over the past couple decades, the organic carrot you bought at the grocery store was probably grown out west or even on the other side of the equator and harvested some weeks before you are it. Most sustainable farmers at the markets were digging in the dirt just the day before and probably that morning to harvest the carrots. nothing beats the flavor of a carrot just pulled from the earth, still warm from the sun, washed off and eaten raw. Not only does it taste good but its packed with nutrients that lessen with time and most importantly, it makes me feel like I am making a difference for my guests and farmers alike. To me, that is the essence of sustainability.
